Once upon a time, the watches of Bulgari, Chanel, Hermes, and other fashion groups were still at the low end of the scorn chain, and they were crowned as “fashion watches” by some of their watchmakers.
However, this phenomenon is changing. In recent years, the watchmaking technology of these brands has advanced by leaps and bounds, even surpassing some traditional watchmaking brands. This performance is particularly evident at this year’s Basel exhibition. In my mind, Bulgari and Chanel are the strengths of them.
Bulgari GMT dual time zone Octo Finissimo automatic chronograph
This Bulgari new work has set the record for the world’s thinnest mechanical chronograph (which was previously maintained by the Earl), which is the fifth consecutive time that Bulgari has broken the world record.
As early as 2014, Bulgari seemed to be bent on colluding with the count. It first released the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch with a case thickness of 5mm and a movement thickness of only 1.95mm. Then in 2016, they made the world’s thinnest minute repeater, the case thickness is only 6.85mm, movement 3.12mm; then, without complex functions, launched the world’s thinnest automatic wristwatch, case thickness 5.15mm, movement thickness 2.23mm (but soon by the Piaget 910P); 2018 In the year, the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon watch was launched, with a case thickness of 3.95mm and a movement thickness of 1.95mm. A series of works constantly refreshed the upper limit of the watchmaking world and also used ultra-thin technology. The count constitutes a powerful threat. (However, the record of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch is still kept by the Earl, the case thickness is only 2mm, but not mass production)
After looking around, I believe that the eye-catching watchers have found that there are no chronographs in these record watches. Indeed, there are not many chronographs going in the ultra-thin direction, because the structure of the chronograph movement is more complicated, with many parts and a large footprint (so many big names are still using the cores of Valjoux or ETA as chronographs). ). As this kind of movement, it is not easy to make an ultra-thin model. Prior to this exhibition, the record of the world’s thinnest chronograph was controlled by the Earl (case thickness 8.24mm).
The Bulgari GMT Octo Finissimo chronograph is made of a titanium case and treated with a matte sandblasting process. The shell has a tendency to be outside the outer circle. It is basically the same as the previous Octo Finissimo watch. The blood is very pure. I saw that Bulgari wanted to make this series a sign.
The diameter of the watch is 42mm and the thickness of the case is only 6.95mm. In contrast, the thickness of the Earl of the previous generation of world record holders was 8.24 mm, which was a full difference of 1.34 mm. In the competition in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking, this improvement has been quite large.
The ultra-thin case is inseparable from the ultra-thin movement. The watch is equipped with a BVL 318 automatic movement with a thickness of only 3.3mm. The general idea of Bulgari is to reduce the thickness at the expense of increasing the width. For example, this movement uses a column wheel and a horizontal clutch – the vertical clutch is better for the watch, but it will increase the thickness of the movement, so the two-phase trade-off can only give priority to the thickness. The result of this idea is that the diameter of the movement and the case are relatively large, the movement reaches 37.2mm (in contrast, the diameter of the 7750 movements is the only 30mm), and the case diameter is 42mm (in contrast, The world’s thinnest automatic mechanical watch made by Bulgari in the past few years has a diameter of only 40mm).
Although the movement is very thin, it still maintains a relatively powerful function. The vibration frequency is 4Hz, and the storage is 55 hours. The price is 16,500 Swiss francs, about 110,000 yuan.
Personally, think that the birth of this watch has two significant significance.
1. Since then, Bulgari has had strong momentum in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking. So far, the only record that has not been overcome by it is the world’s thinnest mechanical watch and the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar. If the count does not respond, the probability is to be completely suppressed.
- Generally speaking, this ultra-thin watch that creates a world record is a concept watch or an expensive limited edition, but Bulgari’s pricing is extremely close to the people so that ordinary watchers can also get rid of it. This is a big one. The breakthrough, the pricing of products for future friends, and even the entire industry have a significant impact.